Cleanup and Paint
From https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/best...
"I'm working on a Hardinge HLV-H built in 1969. Several local buddies have refinished a few machines and have had very good results using readily accessible supplies. For the initial degreasing we use Simple Green straight from the gallon jug and a green Scotchbrite pad. I can't believe how well this stuff works on 45 year old graze and grime. We generally avoid a water hose and simply rinse off using a bug sponge and a bucket of water. For paint removal, if you choose to get that involved, "Aircraft" type paint stripper in spray cans works well. Follow directions on the cans but essentially it's shake well and apply a nice heavy coat. The stuff doesn't run and is very effective. It should be noted there are certain areas on the machine where toy don't want this stuff to go, so the trick there is masking those areas and components with real duct tape. [edit...] not the stuff chicks use for trendy wallets. this tape has a peel away paper and it provides superior protection, just the way aviation refinishers protect the plastic windows when they strip an airplane. After a 30 minute or so soak time the paint is easily removed with a putty knife or equivalent. Multiple applications may be required so be prepared. As reported elsewhere in the thread this process will soften any casting filler so that has to come off as well. Then we spray on mineral spirits and wipe the entire machine down. Clean as a whistle. We found a great PPG product line of direct to metal polyurethane paint called AUE-370. This is a commercial grade paint but we get it locally through an automotive paint supplier. This paint system has yielded tremendous results. We spray with an HVLP gun with a 1.8 MM tip. This stuff can be applied directly to the metal and if you want to do filler work, they recommend the high fill primer that is part of the system known as CRE-X21 which is tintable. For more info go to the PPG Commercial Coatings website or do web search for the data sheets. What's interesting about the 370 is we can't seem to get a run in the stuff no matter how thick the application. It dries to a beautiful luster and is very tough. Here's a picture of the latest resto."
Headstock Gearbox - https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/monarch-lathes/monarch-16-cy-help-...
"When I cleaned out the head on my larger Monarch, I put a large hard drive magnet in off to one side. Last year I changed the oil and was surprised how 'hairy' it got in 6 years. No idea were all the iron came from but I was glad I had the magnet in."
