Hardinge DSM-59 Turret Lathe

Hardinge DSM 59 capstan/turret production machine

  • 9" fixture diameter
  • 1-1/16" collet capacity
  • 6" step chuck capacity
  • 5" jaw chuck capacity
  • 6 position turret, 5/8” shank
  • Speeds to 3500 rpm

Web Resources

  • Tool info - http://www.lathes.co.uk/hardinge3/
  • Service and Maintenance Manual - http://www.babinmachine.com/PDF/DV-59%20service%20and%20maintenance.pdf
  • Parts List http://www.babinmachine.com/PDF/Hardinge%20DSM-DV59-PL-12A.pdf
  • Parts Lookuphttps://shophardinge.com/partslist.asp (defunct?)
  • Work Holding http://www.brown-sharpe.com/product-pictures.htm
  • Cataract Thread Chasing http://www.glennview.com/hardingeholygrail.htm
    #7 Vertical Cut Off Slide discussion - https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/bridgeport-and-hardinge-mills-and-...
    “Hardinge cut off tools, whether vertical, quick change or back mounted, use Luers Patent blades from Empire Tool. The patent is expired and you can now buy the blades from any industrial supply source. They are called P Type or T-shape. Do not use beveled type blades. See the MSC web site, page 550 in the big book. You will see several widths, brands and materials for sale.

    Clamp the blade in your holder so that the overhang is just enough to reach the center of your bar and not hit the bar with the holder. Adjust the blade position so that the tip lines up with the bar center just before it hits the travel stop.

    If the vertical cutoff is assembled correctly, it cannot accidentally fall when the blade is all the way to the top. A spring is not required.

    The beauty of the Luers blade is that it is incredibly easy to sharpen. You just grind the end, never anything else. I have seen used blades that have been wrecked by operators that did not know the correct grinding procedure. The tool holder determines the back rake. Both side relief angles are ground into the bit, as is a hollow on the top that creates a double side rake. You grind the end relief angle, which can simply copy the angle on a new bit. The cutting edge of the blade is usually ground square across with no corner radii, so that the blade does not bend and bind in the cut. That is especially important with narrow blades and deep cuts. Sometimes it will work out OK to grind across at a small angle so that the dropping part does not have a pip remaining in its center. The angle is such that the pip will be almost entirely on the bar end still in the collet when the part drops. The remaining pip will be cut off as the blade travels on past the centerline.”